BACK in November 2005 when The Cuckoo Club opened excess was not the dirty word it has come to be. Bathing the interior from top to bottom in rich, opulent purple, the venue unashamedly celebrated luxury. From the gorgeous drapes and plush leather seating, to the disco-esque ceiling lighting and sleek bar, the glamourous colour scheme was adhered to throughout, and three years later the rock-chic look is still working well.

Paradoxically, the new menu at this members’ club has taken somewhat of a step back from excess – although that is not to say it is any less chic. In fact, new chef Rupert Blease, who comes to the restaurant having worked at the Michelin starred Per Se, has successful put his own elegant twist on contemporary European dining.

Primarily focusing on simple, seasonal and healthy dishes, none of the starters or mains contain butter or cream, making it the perfect pre-clubbing menu, and with a hot pink dance floor beckoning downstairs it is just the ticket.

Intrigued by the premise, I am looking forward to perusing the dishes, but do not make it much past the starters before the equally appealing cocktail list is presented to us.

Mirroring the vibes of the food, the drinks, which rather bemusingly go un-named, contain healthy ingredients such as red pepper, cucumber and beetroot (that’s with the exception of the cigar leaves). Offered a selection to try, they are all welcomingly refreshing and pulsing with crisp flavours.

Getting back to the food, the emphasis is most definitely on light, female-friendly dishes, (quinoa even makes an unusual appearance, served as a salad with the Norwegian king crab). That said, there is still room for extravagance, with foie gras, oysters and caviar all present and correct.

Sticking to the memo, the mains complement the delicate starters, with fish making up almost half the selection – while ingredients such as Barigoule artichokes, aromatic hay and smoked light mashed potato lift the potentially heavy meat dishes.

As early diners at the ultra-cool club we do not have to wait long for our meals and my starter of beef carpaccio arrives artistically presented on a slate plate, with wafer-thin melt-in-the-mouth beef ruffled over one-another and drizzled with smooth aged balsamic, toasted seeds and sorrel.

By the time we have finished our starters, the club is filling up with trendy young things but the attentive service doesn’t slip an inch and before long my pan-fried diver scallops arrive. Spongy, juicy and perfectly set off with the creamy pine nut paste and salty chorizo sausage, I am happily content rather than stuffed by the end of the meal but skip dessert none-theless – that hot pink dance floor is calling after all!

Non-members are welcome to dine at The Cuckoo Club. Two courses cost £40 and three courses £48.

Details: The Cuckoo Club, Swallow Street, London, 020 7287 4300 or www.thecuckooclub.com